Sometimes (okay, most times) I don’t know how I feel or what I want. And in those moments, I do things like booking Milfontes—the small place tucked between Lagos and Lisbon. It just felt nice to go. So I went.

I was carrying Eleanor Oliphant Is Completely Fine. Yes, the title resonated—deeply—and it felt good to return to reading while traveling through Portugal. I finished most of it on the bus to Milfontes. I reached in the evening, and of course, the sad part: the sunset was unfolding on the left side of the bus while I was seated on the right. My heart ached, naturally—it always does when I miss things like that. Still, once I got off, the sky put on enough drama to make up for it. (Check the pic.)

The Airbnb itself was quaint, and I met another traveler who looked visibly relieved at my arrival—she’d been staying there alone with her dog for four days. Company is always nice :) She cooked dinner and kindly offered me some. After food and easy conversation, I took a long shower and hugged the bed like it had been waiting for me.

The next morning, I decided to walk the Fisherman’s Trail. I started around 9, assuming I’d find a café somewhere along the way. Surprise—there was nothing. So there I was, walking for the next six hours on an empty stomach. The only savior was a daily milk bar I’d bought the day before in Lagos. The walk—from town through farms and out onto the cliffs—was stunning. Hardly anyone around, except for a generous number of cats keeping watch.

After a while, I saw a few people here and there, moving in both directions along the trail—not crowded, just enough to remind me the world still existed. It felt surreal. I could see myself, hear myself—my thoughts moving alongside the ocean, the sun, and the vast stretch of sand. Luxury, isn’t it?

Around 2 p.m., I decided to head back and somehow chose the most odd route possible. I crossed arid sand dunes, wandered into fields of nothingness, no one in sight in any direction—just me, singing to myself, enjoying every little thing along the way. Yes, including the trees. I felt like I was home. Like this was exactly where I was meant to be.

At some point, I struggled to find my way back—everything looked the same, all grass alike, all trees indistinguishable. Eventually, instinct kicked in, and somehow I crossed over near someone’s house (private property)… and that’s that.

I made it through a crooked road and finally back into town, to the BnB. It had been a perfect day—full of nature, myself, and a deep sense of serenity. Just before reaching the BnB, I spotted a café. I was relieved, and I’m fairly sure the server was too. I must have looked as exhausted as I felt. A great coffee, toast, and eggs later, it was time to retreat to bed.

And honestly, I couldn’t have asked for more.